I have found my happy place in Hungary! A place I love because it is beautiful and serene but vibrating with energy. It is so important to me to find such places where I am to be resettled for an extended period of time . A place of retreat. Somewhere where I feel at home, comfortable and relaxed, so that I can settle in and engage in self-care every now and again when the cares of day to day living need resorting and reassessment. And I have found it. It is a lovely hill with legends and history but currently populated by the most wonderful community that seek to live on it with care and respect.
There are still COVID-19 concerns and restrictions so my table has remained relatively empty over the past several months. In the meantime, my brilliant husband, Dave, decided that we would explore what we could, when we could, where we could so we took to the backstreets and side streets of Budapest until it was announced that we could leave the city and explore the countryside. And we did. Our first overnighter was to a small cottage on Szent György-Hegy. We both fell in love with this area of Hungary. It is stunningly beautiful as well as peaceful, exuding an energy that is both calming and rejuvenating. Looking to the south there are views of Lake Balaton, the largest lake in Central Europe, with vineyards and pinces (cellars) dotted all over it and gazing north provides a vast vista of the Transdanubian Mountains. The Balaton uplands, is a monogenetic volcanic field where every eruption creates a different volcanic hill, leaving the landscape with a vast selection climbing options! The resulting basalt columns and interesting topography makes David very happy and it has an easy and chill atmosphere that makes me very happy, so it was the best for both of us.
There is so much creativity on this hill, winemakers, bakers, and restaurant owners all so wildly passionate about what they create that it is difficult not to feel their energy. Our first interaction was with the owners of Bencze Birtok when they opened up their cottage again after the COVID-19 lockdown. We booked immediately and their welcome was very generous (and they so kindly helped us with a hilarious but unfortunate event with our car). That visit was purely to get out of the city and head to a place where we could do some hiking and reconnect with nature. We were hooked.
It is serene but never silent. It is a labour intensive way of life on this hill. There is always the brrr of a chainsaw, the pounding of a hammer, the slap of mortar on bricks, a hoe picking its way through weeds, or a mower running between the vines and even an ice cream tricycle that plays that old familiar earworm. The labour that puts vino in our glasses, though, is silent. The grapes are harvested by hand and pressed in présházak (press houses) owned and operated by families that cherish their land and take pride in their produce. The tasting rooms are inviting and generally smallish because the wines are best when they are enhanced with the view that their teraszok (terraces) provide. There were old family vineyards, although the communists took much of the land and most have started again from nothing, others are young dreamers who love the lifestyle of agriculture and want to bring their ideas about wine to fruition.
We have returned for the third time in just as many months and everyday we discover something else that encourages our love affair with this part of the country. We are drawn here to retreat. Wandering the single lane roads, climbing the hill, looking over the vistas, planning which hill to gallivant over next. Scattered vineyards and family pinces entice you to peek around the fruit trees and rose bushes and inquire whether they are open for tasting – they almost always are. The varietals are extensive and many exclusive to Hungary. There are many owners and winemakers here who are committed to produce organic wines, some unfiltered, that have been harvested and bottled according to the moon cycle. There is a connection with the land in this place that is felt through the product that you taste in your glass. The terroir and the grape becomes a work of art created by the winemaker and is best appreciated whilst sitting and overlooking the very vines it came from. Although, it is always difficult to walk away without bottles to share with friends back home.
Visits after that first one were more engaging with the local community as restrictions eased and everyone became more adept to masking and social distancing. We discovered that Szent György-hegy is full of gems that sparkle with owners that produce such superb products that your palate will sing. We arrived on a Monday and had heard about a bakery that was only open Wednesday – Saturday so we patiently waited. Búzalelke Péskesség, opened by Bea Kovacs, was well worth the wait. Her sourdough offerings are superb and I could never return to Budapest without bringing some of her products to my friends. But, it’s her pastries that keep us going back for a second breakfast!
It takes time to find gems, you have to walk the roads and chat with those in the know. One such place, Zöldülő Terasz, is a lovely short 150m stroll through vineyards to a terraced garden that features local wines, cheeses, cured meats and Vivian’s homemade bread. Two young people who enjoy playing games so much decided to share them with others and along with their food and wine menu have created a menu of games for you to choose from and engage in as you imbibe and while away your afternoon! Vivian, Tomas and their puppy Deo live in a house in the family vineyard that they are caring for and decided to open up the bottom level of their home to welcome people. Incidentally, their house white is deliciously refreshing on a warm fall day!
It was harvest time on the hill and Nyári Pince was in full swing. Their Chardonnay, Háslevelű and Cserszegi Fűszeres are among my favourites, but that being said, I haven’t tasted one of their wines that I do not favour. Their tasting room features a beautiful covered terrace that overlooks the hill and has stunning views of Lake Balaton. It is not difficult to see that the family works very hard diligently caring for the property and produce that the Grandfather purchased and planted.
Down the hill a few metres is a lovingly restored building that is now home to a wonderful restaurant. Tarányi Présház was a passion project of some investors that couldn’t bear to see an old baroque building fall into disrepair. They have created a stunning homage to it’s previous life. I think the best way to pay homage is to invite people to slow down, sit, drink and eat and view the work of craftsmen and best of all, good local food and wine and they do that with a gorgeous terrace fitted out with a pizza oven as well as a grouping of privacy lounge couches!
It is literally a hop across the road from there to Gilvesy Pincészet, and like so many others on the hill, they are doing viticulture and winemaking organically. The volcanic soil is specific to this region and, if done right, you can taste it in the glass because at this winery you can definitely do that. They “authentically preserve and express the unique character of the mountain” in their wines with a diligent and respectful nod to the ancient volcanoes and those that lived on the land before them.
Our next stop down the road was Szaszi pince. Every pince has a story and this one is no different. A family who has deep roots on this hill and after communism had wreaked havoc on this country, repurchased land to again do what their ancestors had done before. Their wines are well balanced and crafted to showcase each distinct varietal. We visited the restaurant for lunch and felt a gentle familial pride and welcome. It was a joy.
Never take for granted a place that offers hospitality. Generosity and welcome are not always difficult to encounter, but it must always be received with a grateful heart. It is with a spirit of thankfulness that I am compelled to share my story of Szent György Hegy. We may have just returned from our third trip there, but it will definitely not be our last!
Lael's Table 